The only thing that’s non-negotiable: smoked fish. Still, there’s room for creativity — this salad is just as tasty when made with whitefish as it is with hot-smoked salmon or trout.

These smoking methods can be used for other types of fish, too. Whitefish, another deli staple, is commonly hot-smoked whole and sold that way (though you can ask for it deboned or flaked).

it’s sold dyed and un-dyed as Finnan haddie (cold-smoked fish on the bone), and is turned into Arbroath smokies (a hot-smoked artisanal product from Arbroath in Scotland). Unlike other smoked ...